One thing I didn’t fully understand before staying at Royal Malewane is that Royal Malewane isn’t really one lodge.
It’s a collection of different safari camps, lodges and private houses in the Greater Kruger — all part of The Royal Portfolio, the South African hotel collection owned by Liz and Phil Biden and their family.
And the story behind it is pretty great.
Before Royal Malewane was a hotel, it was the Biden family’s own holiday home in the bush. In 1999, Liz and Phil decided to turn it into a safari lodge and share a place their family had loved for years. It became the first property in what would eventually become The Royal Portfolio. Birkenhead House and La Residence also began as Biden family homes before being turned into hotels.
That probably explains why these properties don’t feel like they came out of a hotel-brand playbook. Liz Biden still oversees the design, and every camp has its own personality.
Some are classic safari. Some are much more contemporary. One is ideal for a big family. One has six pink tented suites. Which one is for you?
First: The Safari Itself
Before getting into where to stay, this is what mattered most to me:
The guiding was exceptional.
This was my second jaunt on safari, and Royal Malewane completely spoiled me.
Our guides and trackers didn’t just drive around looking for lions. They explained everything — how elephants eat, why termite mounds matter, birds I never would have noticed, tracks, behavior, the landscape.
And then there were all the little surprises.
Coffee in the bush. Sundowners. A second breakfast that somehow appeared in the middle of nowhere. Dinner outside with music and dancing. Those moments ended up being just as memorable as the animals. Spend time with your guides and ask them questions about their scariest guiding or tracking experience. Ask about their lives – you never know what you will learn.
So regardless of which camp you choose, the safari experience is the reason to come. The hotel is the part you need to match to the traveler.
Malewane Lodge
Best for: the classic safari experience
This is the original Royal Malewane — the former Biden family bush retreat that started the whole portfolio. It’s classic.
Traditional safari interiors, a watering hole, beautiful common spaces and a lodge where guests naturally end up sitting together and chatting after a game drive.
Malewane Lodge is also going through a significant refresh, but importantly, they aren’t trying to turn it into something modern. The goal is to keep the classic safari character while improving the rooms and flow.
I’d send: first-time safari travelers, couples, honeymooners and anyone who has the traditional safari picture in their head.
One small insider note from our trip: Suite 3 had a particularly good view of the watering hole.
Waterside
Best for: families + anyone who wants safari with a little more familiar luxury
Waterside was where I spent more time, and it feels completely different. It’s brighter, more contemporary and much more colorful. The lodge sits along the water, so there were hippos calling throughout the day, birds everywhere and occasional wildlife wandering through.
My room was enormous and had its own plunge pool.
And this may be the easiest Royal Malewane option for someone who says: “I want to go on safari, but I’m not sure I want to feel too rustic.” Nothing here feels rustic. The accommodations are permanent structures, the paths are paved, and you have a spa, pools, lots of space and plenty of creature comforts between game drives. That can be a huge plus for a family or someone nervous about their first safari. The flip side? If you’re dreaming of a very traditional safari lodge, I might choose Malewane Lodge instead.
Waterside House
This is where it gets especially good for families. Waterside house is a six-bedroom private house with ensuite bedrooms, balconies, a large kitchen and dining area, big pool, firepit and tons of outdoor space. Everyone can be together without being on top of each other.
Which is basically the goal of every multigenerational trip. Read more about multi- generation travel here.
I’d send: families, multigenerational groups and first-time safari travelers who want a very high level of comfort.
Africa House
Best for: a big multigenerational family
Africa House is another six-bedroom private option, but it sits separately from the main lodge and really feels like having your own safari home. We stayed here and setup was fantastic. Big pool. Game room. Lots of gathering space. And there are separate areas where kids and adults can naturally peel off without everyone having to sit in the same room all day.
You don’t have to coordinate restaurant reservations for 12 people.
You don’t have to figure out who sits in what vehicle. You don’t have to split everybody into random hotel rooms. You’re together, but you still have space.
Together. Just not all day.
One thing I would mention because I want these posts to be useful: during our one-night stay, the house itself was spectacular, but the service felt less polished than what we’d experienced elsewhere at Royal Malewane. It could absolutely have been an off night, and I wouldn’t judge the property based on one stay, but at this price point I’d want to discuss staffing and service expectations before sending a private group.
I’d send: large families, multigenerational trips and milestone celebrations.
The Farmstead
Best for: a few couples who want something small
The Farmstead feels more intimate and contemporary. It has just three Luxury Farm Suites plus a separate private villa, so it doesn’t have the same social atmosphere as the original lodge. But there’s a really good trick here.
If three couples book the three suites, they can essentially have the main lodge space to themselves because the villa operates independently with its own dining and safari arrangements. That’s exactly the kind of setup I’d consider for a birthday trip or three couples traveling together.
No need to officially take over a huge safari camp. You practically already have one.
I’d send: friend groups, three couples and travelers who want something small and quiet.
Masiya’s Camp
Best for: design lovers + people who have already done safari
Then there is Masiya’s Camp. And it is NOT subtle.
Masiya’s opened in April 2025 as Royal Malewane’s newest camp, with just six tented suites. It is named for Wilson Masiya, who became the first recognized Master Tracker in the Greater Kruger in 1999 and whose connection to the bush is central to the story of the camp. The rooms are technically “under canvas,” but nobody is roughing it.
Each suite has large indoor and outdoor living areas, a wooden deck, heated private plunge pool and indoor/outdoor shower.
And yes, the tents are pink – I thought they were going to be hot pink – but more of a bubble gum pink. When we first pulled up, I wasn’t sure what to make of it.
Then somehow it worked. The design mixes bold African art, vintage-inspired patterns, bespoke wooden pieces and colors you absolutely do not expect to see in the bush. This is most definitely the least traditional option in the portfolio.
I wouldn’t necessarily send someone here for their only safari if they’ve spent their entire life dreaming about classic khaki-and-canvas Africa. But for someone who has already done safari? Or someone who loves interiors, art and something completely different? Or someone who’s just fun!
And because there are only six suites, I think a full camp takeover for 12 people would be incredible.
I’d send: couples, honeymooners, girls’ trips, milestone birthdays, repeat safari travelers and design people.
I might pair it with: Malewane Lodge or another more traditional safari camp for contrast.
The Part of Royal Malewane I Didn’t Appreciate Enough: Conservation
Something else I think is worth knowing before you go is how involved Royal Malewane is in conservation.
The Royal Portfolio Foundation funds projects focused on wildlife, landscapes and local communities, and guests can sometimes go beyond a standard game drive and spend time with the people doing this work.
And this isn’t just “visit the conservation center for 20 minutes.”
Depending on what is happening while you’re there, experiences can include meeting the anti-poaching team, flying with a bush pilot on an aerial conservation patrol, spending time with wildlife researchers or visiting a local school.
Rhino conservation
Royal Malewane supports rhino dehorning as one part of its anti-poaching work. Guests may occasionally have the opportunity to participate alongside the veterinary team, but this is important: it cannot be scheduled in advance or guaranteed. It only happens when an actual conservation need arises. Which frankly makes much more sense than staging something for tourists.
The K9 anti-poaching team
You can also arrange a demonstration with Tango K9, Royal Malewane’s counter-poaching dog unit. The field rangers work with specially trained tracking and detection dogs on patrols, snare sweeps and reserve protection. Guests can see a training exercise and learn how the dogs and handlers actually work together.
Wild dogs + ground hornbills
The APNR Ground-Hornbill Project has been studying these endangered birds in the Greater Kruger for more than 20 years, and guests can potentially join researchers visiting active nests or arrange a talk with the project team.
Royal Malewane also works with the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s African wild dog program, which tracks free-roaming packs and studies their movements to reduce human-wildlife conflict. Guests may sometimes be able to join the team in the field for research work such as collaring or data gathering.
Helicopter patrol
Another option is an aerial patrol with a bush pilot and reserve warden. From the air, you see not only the wildlife but also the bigger conservation issue — where wilderness, agriculture and nearby communities meet. The warden may count elephants and check on rhino safety before the flight continues toward the Drakensberg Mountains and Blyde River Canyon. This is the sort of experience I’d add for someone who has already been on a few safaris and wants to understand more about what it actually takes to protect the land and wildlife they’re seeing.
So Which Royal Malewane Would I Choose?
| If you’re looking for… | I’d choose… |
|---|---|
| Classic first safari | Malewane Lodge |
| Traditional safari design | Malewane Lodge |
| Family-friendly | Waterside |
| Multigenerational trip | Waterside House or Africa House |
| Three couples | The Farmstead |
| Most contemporary | Waterside |
| Private family house | Africa House |
| Most unusual design | Masiya’s Camp |
| Repeat safari | Masiya’s Camp |
| Small full buyout | Masiya’s Camp |
| Someone nervous about safari | Waterside |
What I’d Do on a First Trip to South Africa
I wouldn’t make safari the entire trip. South Africa is so good because you can combine completely different experiences without leaving the country. If I were building a first trip around The Royal Portfolio, I might do:
La Residence → The Silo → Royal Malewane
Wine country. Cape Town. Safari.
Or add Birkenhead House if you have enough time and want a few nights on the coast. The Royal Portfolio works particularly well for this because the properties feel connected without feeling remotely the same.
A Few Safari Things I Wish I’d Known
You need fewer clothes than you think. Safari is casual, and laundry makes packing much easier.
Layers matter. Morning drives are early and can be cold while afternoons can get hot.
There is time to relax. You’ll have time to read, sit by the pool and play Mahjong between game drives.
And ask about conservation experiences before you arrive. Some can be planned, while others depend entirely on what is happening in the bush that week.
