This was my sleeper surprise of South Africa.
Birkenhead House sits right on the cliffs in Hermanus with enormous waves crashing below and a coastal walking path outside. If coastal California and South Africa had a very chic little hotel together, this might be it.
Why I Love Birkenhead House
I loved how relaxed it felt. Cocktails in the living room before dinner, windows open at night so you can hear the waves, great food and one of the best massages I had on the trip.
Birkenhead House was originally the Biden family’s own beach house, which helps explain why it feels so personal and relaxed. It was later opened to guests as part of The Royal Portfolio, the family-owned South African collection that also includes The Silo in Cape Town, La Residence in Franschhoek and Royal Malewane in the Greater Kruger.
The main house is adults only, but Birkenhead also manages nearby private villas that work well for families with younger kids. They give you the same dramatic coastline and access to the Royal Portfolio service, but with more space and a setup that actually works for a family or multigenerational group
5 Reasons to Visit Birkenhead House
1. Whale watching — without necessarily getting on a boat
Hermanus is one of the best places in South Africa for whale watching. Southern Right whale season generally runs from June through November, with August through October a particularly good time to go. And the best part about staying here? During whale season, you may be able to watch them right from the cliffs or along the coastal path.
2. The location
The hotel is perched right above the ocean, and the views are the reason to come. There’s also a beautiful coastal path directly outside the hotel. We walked it into Hermanus, wandered around town, shopped and then took the hotel shuttle back.
3. It feels like a beach house
There are only a small number of rooms, so it never feels like a resort. Everyone gathers in the living room for drinks before dinner, there are little places to sit throughout the house, and the whole experience feels very personal and relaxed.
Get the ocean-view room. Not every room has the same view, and this is one hotel where I think it’s worth paying for it. Room placement can also affect privacy, so I’d want to know exactly which room I was booking.
4. The Staff
Birkenhead house is like going home. The staff is incredible, and each feels like they are an extention of the Biden family.
One of my favorite experiences was heading out to collect mussels and then coming back to cook them with chef Clive – he’s quite the character (as you can see below).
And book a massage. I had one of the best massages I’ve ever had.
5. There are private villas for families
The main Birkenhead House experience is better suited to adults and older children, but The Royal Portfolio also has private villas nearby that allow younger kids and make much more sense for a family or multigenerational trip.
You get more space and privacy while still having access to the Royal Portfolio team and the Hermanus experience. This is the option I’d look at if you love the idea of Birkenhead House but are traveling with little kids.
Who I’d Send
Couples + honeymooners: Absolutely. I particularly like it at the beginning or end of a bigger South Africa trip.
Whale lovers: Go during whale season.
Families: Look at one of the private villas, especially with younger children.
Someone with mobility issues: Probably not my first choice. There are quite a few stairs.
Good to Know
LOCATION: Hermanus, South Africa
HOW LONG: 1–2 nights. I don’t think you need a week here.
WHALE SEASON: Generally June–November; I’d especially look at August–October.
ROOM TIP: Get the ocean view.
DON’T MISS: Coastal walk into Hermanus, spa + mussel experience.
PAIR IT WITH: This fits beautifully into a larger South Africa trip with La Residence in the Winelands, The Silo in Cape Town and Royal Malewane for safari. And because I’ve stayed at all four, I can help figure out not just which properties make sense, but how I’d put them together.
My Take
I didn’t expect Birkenhead House to be one of my favorites. It was. I’d come here for the ocean, the relaxed beach-house feeling and a day or two with very little planned.
And if you happen to be there during whale season? Even better.
